We
mark the mortise and deck beam
locations.

We cut those mortises with a router. Noisy and dusty but much
easier than the alternative.

After cutting angles on the ends of the gunnels, we set up the
frame and lock in the shape of the deck.
I kerf the ends with a jig saw, fast, easy, and a perfect mating
surface with no binding handsaws. One of my secrets.
We make deck beams to replace the braces.
Marking for the curved deck beams.
The end kerfs are completed, the ends are
pegged and lashed.
The deck beams are lashed.
The finished deck is still missing the Masik, or knee brace, which sits
atop the gunnels. End of day 1.
The keel is set to depth and held by cam straps.
We flatten the surfaces where the stems will mate to the gunwales.
Stem angles are chosen and cut, and the gunwale end profile is traced
into the stems.
The stems are attached.
The end of the 2nd day.
The ends of the kayak are notched and a breasthook is fitted.
Deck stringers are fitted.
Steam bending in the ribs, in the Ginnyak this is accomplished
with precut lengths, with replica kayaks they are bent in under the
keel, trueing is accomplished by trimming and shimming.
Stringers are laid on and in this case, nailed to the ribs!
Building the coaming, this takes more time than any other single
process. (forgot to take picture)
The completed frame is lightly oiled and needs to dry. Do not oil
the coaming. End of day 3.
Stretching the wet nylon into place.
Sewing it up.
Dying the fabric. End of day 4.
Coating the kayak. Days 5 and 6.
Installing deck rigging, rub strips, and end knobs. Day 7.
Carving a paddle. Days 5 & 6.
A beautiful new kayak.
This kayak is for sale, the cost is $2000 and includes the paddle.